FLASHBACK #46: Scandinavian Extravaganza - Final Words

As if I haven't gone on and on enough, eh? Well, in summary the trip was an exhausting one, but I could not have had better company. Judy and Sweetpea were hilarious and, considering, I think the three of us bounced off each other really well.

Over a period of three weeks together, we had visited five countries and travelled nearly 3,000 miles and, despite my crankiness, the girls hadn't killed me!

For me, the timing of the trip wasn't ideal, but looking back, I am glad that I did it and I'm glad I did it with Judy and Sweetpea. Thanks girls, I love youse!

I want to thank Judy for her huge courage. Planning of the trip started in June 2003, when Judy, Sweetpea and I met up for a long weekend in Spain. During our chat, she pointed out that, since a car accident earlier in the year, she lacked a feeling of security whilst in a car.

In my mind, I started to wonder why she had agreed to go on a driving holiday, but I honestly think it has done her good. As the days passed, she spent more and more time looking at the road ahead, rather than occupying herself or throwing a coat over her head! Well done, Judy!

And Sweetpea - thank you for all your wise advice… some of it has still had an affect to this very day. You have a very calming effect on me and I will never forget your "oh, it's fabs", your "it's a bit naff, innits" and your "have it alls!' Bleedin' hilarious, you are!

After returning to Finland, I calculated that the trip cost less than £900 per person for three weeks including all costs (accommodation, travelling, food, drink etc). This doesn't take into account personal spending other than those mentiond above, but when you consider what we had done for around £300 per week…fab, eh, Sweetpea?!

Right, I think I have gone on enough... No, you don't say!

FLASHBACK #46: Scandinavian Extravaganza (Pt.3)

Day 16 – Forde to Bergen

After the relaxing evening in Forde, we were looking forward to going to Bergen; we longed for a night out in a city, whatever the weather. The thing I had realised so far during our time in Norway was that it isn't the kind of trip one takes if you expect nightlife. Instead, you enjoy the views and immerse yourself in the nature.

It was only us staying at the hostel the previous night so when we went down for breakfast, it was just us. We swiftly got our things together, loaded the car and headed off. About an hour later, we came across a beautiful view, countless peaks nestling in perfect formation. When I look back on the photos, it brings back such memories which I have always thought adds to the magic of photos. It's such a powerful medium; the human brain forgets such moments, but photos help us to remember.

Shortly after the amazing view across the lake, we came to a ferry crossing terminal. Shortly after boarding, we abadoned the car on the deck and headed to the upper, open-air deck. Judy opened this huge bag of crisps and, in a rage of guilty consciousness, decided to launch her new program, "Fitness In The Fjords".

The drive from Forde to Bergen was very bendy, but as we approached the city of Bergen, I was very surprised by how built up it was when compared to what we had seen so far in Norway. Bustling with tourists, it proved a bit problematic to get somewhere to stay for the night, but once we were settled, we proceed to plan our first night out…

Our night out in Bergen made a nice change. We had a drink on the roof garden before heading out; the bars had weird licensing rules on spirits and the norwegians were so rough that most of your drink ended up on the floor rather than in your mouth. That didn't stop the three of us being 'popular' with the locals, did it girls?! Don't worry, your secrets are safe with me!

Day 17–Bergen

The next morning was a bit of a bad one for Sweetpea who had gone a bit overboard with drink (hadn't we all?). We didn't get into bed until 5am and, around mid-day, we were already on our way up Mt. Ulriken (642m) by cable car.

In 1791, Johan Nordal Brun wrote Bergen's National Anthem atop this mountain. Bergen, proclaimed European City of Culture 2000, was founded in 1070 and was the most important and populous city in Norway until the 1800s. German wharves still nestle alongside the harbour, a reminder of when the Hanseatic league ruled the town for hundreds of years.

Day 18 – Granvin, Hardangerford

We left Bergen in the afternoon, heading towards Oslo via Hardangerfjord. The fjord was beautiful as you can see from the photos.

Just before 7pm, we decided to knock the driving on the head for the day and find a place to stay for the night. The first place we stopped at was more then ideal, in a lovely location and affordable so we stayed.

This was the night I think that we were all exhausted. The girls had an early night, but I remained awake. I went for a swim in the fjord – yes, it was bloody cold – but it was refreshing, followed by a dinner of weetabix and chocolate sauce. I sat on the balcony, updating my diary.

By now, I was actually so overtired that I couldn't sleep. I had obviously upset my bodyclock with all the driving, the planning and the partying and part of me was just looking forward to the last few days where I could really have a drink without worrying too much about driving a long distance the next day.

Day 19 – Granvin to Honefoss

The following morning was kind of unique. As we left Granvin through a series of meandering, narrow tunnels, we seemed to be climbing higher and higher. After a while, the girls and I were convinced that we were driving through the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales and the Scottish Highlands all in one day. At one point, in the distance, we saw a glacier, the second one we had seen on this visit. A huge mass of ice just sitting there was quite unique, considering it was August.

The day had been spent driving along what was called the Adventure Road, which stretches all the way from Bergen to Oslo. This part of Norway is full of contrasts; Glaciers, expansive planes, lakes, hills, bends. I was just grateful that it was dry as it made the driving much more enjoyable.

By late afternoon, we had arrived in Honefoss about 20km North of Oslo. We sipped coffee and ate carrot cake in what used to be the towns own prison many years ago. Later, we would eat our first proper meal in a restaurant in nearly a week. I opted for Chicken and chips! Yummy!

Day 20 – Oslo

Having stayed the previous night at a road-side motel, we moved on quite early and found ourselves heading towards Oslo with the morning traffic. It made a change to be around other motorists since we had obviously missed the usual multitude of tourists that usually flock to Norway in June and July. I am glad that we visited Norway when we did; it made getting accommodation less problematic which meant our itinerary was very flexible. The only drawback was the grey days and occasion spat of rain.

And talking about the weather, the weather on this day was horrendous. However, we made the most of it by visiting Oslo Schlott (castle) where we took a guided indoor tour. We also visited the Resistance Museum which provided an insight into Norways' five year Occupation by the Nazi's during WWII.

It was very interesting to learn that the King of Norway (and his government) fled to the UK and continued to broadcast regularly to 'his' people over the radio waves with the intention of one day acheiving freedom for the people. This relationship with the UK is still recognised with the hanging of an England flag inside Nidaros Cathedral, the one we visited in Trondheim.

Later in the afternoon, we boarded a boat which would take us to the wrong part of Denmark. You see, we had originally intended to go to Helsingör on the west coast of Denmark and just 20 kms from Copenhagen. However, due to a mix-up with our bookings, we were book to travel to Hirtshall on the north coast of Denmark. Throughout dinner onboard, I was angry at such a stupid mixup. You see, I had called the liner three times to confirm the details and, on each occasion, I was assured that I was going to Helsingör.

There wasn't be much to do onboard so it was an early night for us.

Day 21 – Copenhagen

Thankfully, we had a map that would help up make the six hour drive to Copenhagen. With a bit of speeding, we got to Copenhagen just before lunchtime. Despite the long drive, I can speak for the three of us that we all like Copenhagen. When we arrived, the first places I wanted to take the girls to was Nyhavn, Copenhagen's Latin Quarter.

In Nyhavn, we had huge salads for lunch and were served by a gorgeous waiter! The Danes are so tall and healthy looking that it's difficult not to notice them! The lunch was gooooood and I ate what the girls couldn't manage of their large salad portions!!

We went on a boat-trip around the city, taking in the city by water. When we returned to Nyhavn, we walked from Kings Square down StrØget, Copenhagen's most lively street full of shops, stalls and street entertainers.

At the end of StrØget, we came to Tivoli, the famous theme park known throughout Scandinavia. Nearby was an imposing larger than life status of Hans Christian Anderson, perhaps the most famous Dane ever. We headed back to the hotel, got changed, then took a taxi back to Tivoli for the evening, enjoying the circus acts, the lights displays and the amusements.

Day 22 – Copenhagen

With so little time on our side (we had to leave Copenhagen by 2pm), we decided to split up on this day to get what we all wanted out of this great city. The girls naturally went off and headed to the shopping area. I started my own little adventure by heading north, passing Kings Square, heading towards Rosenborg Castle.

The castle was built in 1606-34 as a "summerhouse" for Christian IV. It has been used from 1658 as Treasury of the Realm, and since 1838 as a museum of the History of the Danish Royal Family. I visited the castle, and the treasury which is located underneath the castle. The castle contains an enormous collection of priceless works of arts while the treasury itself houses the crown jewels.

After a stroll around the gardens, I headed back towards Kings Square where I popped into an off license and bought a bottle of Moet & Chandon champagne. My plan was to put this on ice once we had boarded the boat from Esbjerg to Harwich later in the day. Anyway, I left Kings Square and headed towards Amelienborg.

The four palaces of Amelienborg, whose open central space is open to the public, were built in 1750-54. Since 1794, they have been the home of the Royal Family. I didn't have time to visit the palaces, but caught the last five minutes of the changing of the guard ceremony.

After a quick mosey around Amelienborg, I quickly made my way to the huge church which seemed to be on the other side of the city. The first stone of Our Saviours Church was laid in October 1682 and, over thirteen years later in 1696, King Christian V dedicated it. According to the guide, the church is a very popular religious venue in Denmark, capable of accommodation 1200 people.

For the price of £2, visitors get a detailed leaflet about the building and are allowed to scale the 144 steps to the top of the spire. From the top, you are rewarded with amazing views of the city.

When I met up with the girls later in the afternoon, it was time to start our drive to Esbjerg on the far west coast of Denmark. We got onboard on time and, overnight, were transported to Harwich. Home sweet home!

FLASHBACK #46: Scandinavian Extravaganza (Pt.2)

Day 12 – Åre to Trondheim

After crossing the border into Norway later the next morning, we headed towards Trondheim. "Founded by King Olav of Viking fame in 997, Trondheim holds a special place in Norwegian history. It was the first capital of Norway and is still the city where new kings receive their ceremonial blessing. It is a popular pilgrimage site, an ecclesiastical centre, a regional capital, a centre for commerce and administration and a city of education and research. Only 500 kilometres south of the Arctic Circle, the climate is blessed by the warming presence of the Gulf Stream" - www.trondheim.com/engelsk/

"Norway´s national sanctuary and the most important monument from the Middle Ages, Nidaros Cathedral was built over the grave of St. Olav, Norway’s patron saint whose reputation shone far beyond the borders of his country. Construction started in 1070, but the oldest parts still in existence are from the middle of the 12th century. Ravaged by fire on several occasions, the church was rebuilt each time.."

We took a tour up one of the towers to gain an panaoramic view of Trondheim; it was surrounded by dense greenery and the light this late in the afternoon made the scene sort of glow.

Our accommodation for the night was a cabin a little bit bigger that the car, in Øysand, just outside Trondheim (see photo)!.

We had a relaxing evening, self catering and taking our food to the nearby beach where we joked that the scenery could pass for North Wales! The sunset was great, just like sunsets on holidays should be.

Day 13 – Trondheim to Molde to Åndelsnes

As we left Øysand, our journey down the fjords began. The weather wasn't too great, but the company was! The photos above show our first view of the fjords and the two things that we would encounter daily for the rest of the trip; ferries and toll bridges. On the first day, the costs of using these ferries and toll bridges built up to such an extent that I feared that would be bankrupt by the end of the week!

Our first stop of the day was in Molde, which is advertised as the "start of the Atlantic Road". We visited Romdsal museum, one of Norways largest folk museums est. 1912. There, we drank tea and ate cake in the quaint tea-room before driving up to the summit of Molde's highest peak to enjoy the view of the archipelago (third picture down from images above).

We left Molde in the late afternoon and headed towards Åndelsnes, where he weather took a turn for the worse. We referred to our thus far reliable list of hostels in Norway, made a couple of calls and made a booking with a more than suitable place to stay. Before we headed to the hostel, we stopped by the Tourist Information office in the town. There was limited information and the atmosphere on this rainy day left alot to be desired.

Leaving Judy at the hostel, Sweetpea and I headed to the supermarket and bought some food for the evening. With the rain being as heavy as it were, we planned to have another nice night in. After dinner, we found a cosy area with facing sofas and table. We poured ourselves a drink of our favourite tipples, grabbed our books and looked at the pictures taken so far with the digicam.

It emerged that a group of french guys were also staying at the hostel and, in broken English, they attempted to communicate, naturally focusing their attentions on the girls!

Day 14 – Åndelsnes to Geiranger

We planned to travel along the infamous Trolls Road (see photo on right), but I was going to be very disappointed; due to the exceptional rain fall, the treacherous road had been closed. I had been reading about the Trolls Road for a long time and agonised over whether or not to detour around the Trolls Road area in order to reach Geiranger, or to wait to see if the weather lifted. After a bit of coaxing, we moved on and I'm grateful now for Sweetpea and Judy's reasoning. Still, we saw some cows, didn't we, girls?!

We made it to Geiranger and, after a wander in the town and a coffee in a local cafe, we stocked up on food before heading to a hostel and enquiring as to availability. One particular hostel had availability and it was lovely - we literally had a whole house to ourselves!

I made a pizza and washed it down with a Bacardi and coke! Later on that cold evening, we bunched up on the sofa and listened to music. Judy started an interesting conversation about the things she would love to acheive.

The photo on the right is interesting, taken at Flydalsjuvet; you can see Sweetpea towards the treacherous edge.

Day 15 – Forde

Before leaving Geiranger, we visited the Norwegian Fjord Centre (www.fjordsenter.info). There, we learned about the fjord way of life from the dawn of time to the present day. There was a very moving slideshow called From Mountain To Fjord which presented classical music with a visual showcase of the four seasons in the fjords. We even got to experience an Avalanche, in an avalanche simulator which was kind of bizarre!

We left Geiranger in the late afternoon via Dalsnibba (1,476m), one of the Norwegian mountains. The roads meandered dangerously, fog setting in the higher we went. We came to a stop where you could continue or you could take a turn and, paying a toll, you could drive to the top. To be honest, I thought it was cheeky to charge a fee to drive to the top of a mountain, but the weather wasn't ideal anyway so we moved on…

So far in Norway, apart from when we were in Trondheim, it had done nothing but rain. I was warned by my friends in Finland not to expect too much which regards to Norwegian weather during this time of year, but what I saw a couple of hours after leaving Geiranger was amazing. It was as if the heavens opened up and we were welcomed into the quaint small town of Forde.

While we made dinner, Sweetpea entertained us with a sieve, pretending to be a professional fencer!

FLASHBACK #46: Scandinavian Extravaganza (Pt.1)

Introduction

The plan was to get the girls, Judy & Sweetpea (who I had met in China, see Flashback 14), over to Finland, spend a few days in Helsinki, a few days in Estonia, then over to Stockholm in Sweden for two days. From there, the hard work of travelling and moving on daily would begin as we toured the Norwegian Fjords, driving to Sweden via Oslo to go to Gothenburg and, from there, to catch the ferry to Copenhagen in Denmark, our final destination.

There were many highs and lows, but Norway met all my expectations and was exactly how I imagined it so no disappointments there. In fact, I've already decided that I am going to visit one or two of my favourite places again someday. Stockholm was fabulous, Tallinn (the capital of Estonia) was very low-key, but nevertheless had a beautiful old town. With regards to Oslo, I can't really comment on because we were only there as day-trippers, but Copenhagen was cool.

We didn't quite get to Gothenburg nor did we get to Denmark the way we planned, but I will explain these as the story unfolds.

Day 1-2 – In Helsinki

Officially, I didn't live in Tampere anymore and, straight after my last day at work, I headed to the airport and waited for the the girls to arrive. Upon their arrival, I transportred them to Bree's. Unfortunately, he wasn't there, but a huge cake made especially for the girls greeted us! The girls had been won over and they hadn't yet even met him for the first time! Before long, Bree joined us and the four of us relaxed for the evening, catching up and getting to know Bree.

The next day was spent getting to know Helsinki. The morning weather was fantastic so, after a breakfast, we headed to Hiertaniemi beach for a spot of sunbathing. In the afternoon, we went for a driv, taking in the Lutheran Cathedral in Senate Square and the Sebelius monument (a tribute composer, Jean Sibelius (1865-1957) see picture above).

In the evening, it was time to introduce Sweetpea to Salmiaki koskenkorva, a liquorice-like schnapps. There really is nothing better to warm you up when it's -25 in the winter and, from then on, it would be known as Gee's Linctus!

Days 4-6 – Estonia

I had been to Estonia before, but the trip would start with a difference; we would be flying their with Copertline, making the trip across the Baltic Sea in just 18 minutes! I had never flown on a helicopter before and it was a great experience.

In the old town, the girls were clowning around with the hats on sale in the market square. We ascended the steep, cobbled streets of the old town to reach the Alexander Nevski Cathedral, an Orthodox church and Tallinn’s largest and grandest cupola cathedral. This was built when Estonia was part of the Russian tsarist empire.

Below, you can see a panoramic view from the observation point. Tallinn’s Town Hall is said to be the best-preserved Medieval town hall in Northern Europe.

Our trip to Estonia was particularly full of funny moments, the first one being an idea of Judy's. Over a coffee in a cafe, she suggest that I wear my underpants outside my shorts and walk around the market place to see if anybody noticed. Game for a laugh, Judy got her video camera rigged up while I got changed in the toilets. The results were hilarious.

Another incident was when we got ready to go out one night. After a few drinks in an Irish Pub in the Market Place, we headed to Hotel Viro just outside the old town. There, in a nightclub of a sort, we were whisked back in time some twenty years. The music they were playing old and corny, stuff we had grown out of years ago. It was quite amusing.

We stayed at the Domina City hotel and there's actually another not-so-funny story here too... Having made the hotel booking by telephone, a misunderstanding had materialised. For two nights in Tallinn, I understood the price to be €180 for the room. Upon checking out, it materialised that the cost of the hotel was €180 PER night. After much complaining, we managed to get the second night for just €7! It was a great hotel. Remember the fab elevators, girls?!

Days 7-8 – Helsinki

On our last night in Helsinki, we visited Hotel Torni. Although it's a hotel, it has free access to the public whereby you can travel up to the 12th floor by elevator, scale a winding, spiral staircase and enjoy views of the city from the bar. This is a great place to be on a Summer evening… Before turning in, we visited DTM where we watched a drag show.

Days 9-10 – Stockolm

For a moment, I thought we would miss our boat from Helsinki Harbour. a 6pm departure, the traffic in Eteläesplanadi was horrendous. I called Bree and, in her sports car, she guided us through a shortcut to the harbour. Thanks, babe!

We boarded the huge Silja Line cruise liner and settled down for the evening, enjoying a nice slap up buffet dinner and drinking in the bar onboard.

The ship arrived in Stockholm at 9am the following morning. Fortunately, it was a Sunday so there was very little traffic about on the first part of our driving. It took us less than half an hour to get from the harbour to the hotel (thanks, Sweetpea, for the brilliant map-reading!). The hotel was great, in a lovely location. I had been to Stockholm before too, but I had never stayed overnight so the first thing I wanted to show the girls was Gamla Stan, the old town (see photos below).

There is something about Stockholm that really appeals to me; you can sense the majesty in its buildings as it's very grand, clean and very well laid-out. It also has an amazing history which was being re-enacted on the very Sunday we were there with Changing of the Guards ceremonies.

"The lovely, lively Stockholm, with its maritime bent and international flavour, is a magnet for tourists. It is ideally situated for trade connections, and the 24,000 islands of the archipelago protect the urban islands from the open seas. In fact, the capital city is best seen from the water, but once on land you won't want to miss out on the parklands of Djurgården, the alleys of Gamla Stan or the 50-plus museums bursting with world-class treasures."

"Almost two million people live in greater Stockholm, and over 15% of them are immigrants. Just stroll through the quaint streets, and you'll hear everything from Polish to Japanese. The city's royal residences include the largest palace in the world still in use, and the World Heritage-listed Drottninghom. And if that's not enough to win you over, Stockholm also has the best selection of budget accommodation in Northern Europe. Rooms are generally clean and comfy, although not very cheap - after all, it is still Scandinavia" (LonelyPlanet.com)

Day 11 – Drive to Åre

The weather on this day was quite dramatic; within an hour of leaving Stockholm, I had to stop to capture the sky on my digital camera and, an hour later, we saw this (see picture of right). What a contrast!

Now I could 'feel' that Finland and Sweden were neighbours; this looks remarkably like a typical Finnish lake-side settlement. Day 11 was the longest as far as driving was concerned. We must have driven for at least seven hours that day up the west coast of Sweden to Sundsvall, then heading east to Åre, our overnight stop.

We found a really cheap hostel about four kilometres from Åre. The cold, wet night resulted in a night indoors, eating fajita wraps with tuna and sweetcorn and discussing politics.