Thursday, August 21, 2003

FLASHBACK #46: Scandinavian Extravaganza (Pt.3)

Day 16 – Forde to Bergen

After the relaxing evening in Forde, we were looking forward to going to Bergen; we longed for a night out in a city, whatever the weather. The thing I had realised so far during our time in Norway was that it isn't the kind of trip one takes if you expect nightlife. Instead, you enjoy the views and immerse yourself in the nature.

It was only us staying at the hostel the previous night so when we went down for breakfast, it was just us. We swiftly got our things together, loaded the car and headed off. About an hour later, we came across a beautiful view, countless peaks nestling in perfect formation. When I look back on the photos, it brings back such memories which I have always thought adds to the magic of photos. It's such a powerful medium; the human brain forgets such moments, but photos help us to remember.

Shortly after the amazing view across the lake, we came to a ferry crossing terminal. Shortly after boarding, we abadoned the car on the deck and headed to the upper, open-air deck. Judy opened this huge bag of crisps and, in a rage of guilty consciousness, decided to launch her new program, "Fitness In The Fjords".

The drive from Forde to Bergen was very bendy, but as we approached the city of Bergen, I was very surprised by how built up it was when compared to what we had seen so far in Norway. Bustling with tourists, it proved a bit problematic to get somewhere to stay for the night, but once we were settled, we proceed to plan our first night out…

Our night out in Bergen made a nice change. We had a drink on the roof garden before heading out; the bars had weird licensing rules on spirits and the norwegians were so rough that most of your drink ended up on the floor rather than in your mouth. That didn't stop the three of us being 'popular' with the locals, did it girls?! Don't worry, your secrets are safe with me!

Day 17–Bergen

The next morning was a bit of a bad one for Sweetpea who had gone a bit overboard with drink (hadn't we all?). We didn't get into bed until 5am and, around mid-day, we were already on our way up Mt. Ulriken (642m) by cable car.

In 1791, Johan Nordal Brun wrote Bergen's National Anthem atop this mountain. Bergen, proclaimed European City of Culture 2000, was founded in 1070 and was the most important and populous city in Norway until the 1800s. German wharves still nestle alongside the harbour, a reminder of when the Hanseatic league ruled the town for hundreds of years.

Day 18 – Granvin, Hardangerford

We left Bergen in the afternoon, heading towards Oslo via Hardangerfjord. The fjord was beautiful as you can see from the photos.

Just before 7pm, we decided to knock the driving on the head for the day and find a place to stay for the night. The first place we stopped at was more then ideal, in a lovely location and affordable so we stayed.

This was the night I think that we were all exhausted. The girls had an early night, but I remained awake. I went for a swim in the fjord – yes, it was bloody cold – but it was refreshing, followed by a dinner of weetabix and chocolate sauce. I sat on the balcony, updating my diary.

By now, I was actually so overtired that I couldn't sleep. I had obviously upset my bodyclock with all the driving, the planning and the partying and part of me was just looking forward to the last few days where I could really have a drink without worrying too much about driving a long distance the next day.

Day 19 – Granvin to Honefoss

The following morning was kind of unique. As we left Granvin through a series of meandering, narrow tunnels, we seemed to be climbing higher and higher. After a while, the girls and I were convinced that we were driving through the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales and the Scottish Highlands all in one day. At one point, in the distance, we saw a glacier, the second one we had seen on this visit. A huge mass of ice just sitting there was quite unique, considering it was August.

The day had been spent driving along what was called the Adventure Road, which stretches all the way from Bergen to Oslo. This part of Norway is full of contrasts; Glaciers, expansive planes, lakes, hills, bends. I was just grateful that it was dry as it made the driving much more enjoyable.

By late afternoon, we had arrived in Honefoss about 20km North of Oslo. We sipped coffee and ate carrot cake in what used to be the towns own prison many years ago. Later, we would eat our first proper meal in a restaurant in nearly a week. I opted for Chicken and chips! Yummy!

Day 20 – Oslo

Having stayed the previous night at a road-side motel, we moved on quite early and found ourselves heading towards Oslo with the morning traffic. It made a change to be around other motorists since we had obviously missed the usual multitude of tourists that usually flock to Norway in June and July. I am glad that we visited Norway when we did; it made getting accommodation less problematic which meant our itinerary was very flexible. The only drawback was the grey days and occasion spat of rain.

And talking about the weather, the weather on this day was horrendous. However, we made the most of it by visiting Oslo Schlott (castle) where we took a guided indoor tour. We also visited the Resistance Museum which provided an insight into Norways' five year Occupation by the Nazi's during WWII.

It was very interesting to learn that the King of Norway (and his government) fled to the UK and continued to broadcast regularly to 'his' people over the radio waves with the intention of one day acheiving freedom for the people. This relationship with the UK is still recognised with the hanging of an England flag inside Nidaros Cathedral, the one we visited in Trondheim.

Later in the afternoon, we boarded a boat which would take us to the wrong part of Denmark. You see, we had originally intended to go to Helsingör on the west coast of Denmark and just 20 kms from Copenhagen. However, due to a mix-up with our bookings, we were book to travel to Hirtshall on the north coast of Denmark. Throughout dinner onboard, I was angry at such a stupid mixup. You see, I had called the liner three times to confirm the details and, on each occasion, I was assured that I was going to Helsingör.

There wasn't be much to do onboard so it was an early night for us.

Day 21 – Copenhagen

Thankfully, we had a map that would help up make the six hour drive to Copenhagen. With a bit of speeding, we got to Copenhagen just before lunchtime. Despite the long drive, I can speak for the three of us that we all like Copenhagen. When we arrived, the first places I wanted to take the girls to was Nyhavn, Copenhagen's Latin Quarter.

In Nyhavn, we had huge salads for lunch and were served by a gorgeous waiter! The Danes are so tall and healthy looking that it's difficult not to notice them! The lunch was gooooood and I ate what the girls couldn't manage of their large salad portions!!

We went on a boat-trip around the city, taking in the city by water. When we returned to Nyhavn, we walked from Kings Square down StrØget, Copenhagen's most lively street full of shops, stalls and street entertainers.

At the end of StrØget, we came to Tivoli, the famous theme park known throughout Scandinavia. Nearby was an imposing larger than life status of Hans Christian Anderson, perhaps the most famous Dane ever. We headed back to the hotel, got changed, then took a taxi back to Tivoli for the evening, enjoying the circus acts, the lights displays and the amusements.

Day 22 – Copenhagen

With so little time on our side (we had to leave Copenhagen by 2pm), we decided to split up on this day to get what we all wanted out of this great city. The girls naturally went off and headed to the shopping area. I started my own little adventure by heading north, passing Kings Square, heading towards Rosenborg Castle.

The castle was built in 1606-34 as a "summerhouse" for Christian IV. It has been used from 1658 as Treasury of the Realm, and since 1838 as a museum of the History of the Danish Royal Family. I visited the castle, and the treasury which is located underneath the castle. The castle contains an enormous collection of priceless works of arts while the treasury itself houses the crown jewels.

After a stroll around the gardens, I headed back towards Kings Square where I popped into an off license and bought a bottle of Moet & Chandon champagne. My plan was to put this on ice once we had boarded the boat from Esbjerg to Harwich later in the day. Anyway, I left Kings Square and headed towards Amelienborg.

The four palaces of Amelienborg, whose open central space is open to the public, were built in 1750-54. Since 1794, they have been the home of the Royal Family. I didn't have time to visit the palaces, but caught the last five minutes of the changing of the guard ceremony.

After a quick mosey around Amelienborg, I quickly made my way to the huge church which seemed to be on the other side of the city. The first stone of Our Saviours Church was laid in October 1682 and, over thirteen years later in 1696, King Christian V dedicated it. According to the guide, the church is a very popular religious venue in Denmark, capable of accommodation 1200 people.

For the price of £2, visitors get a detailed leaflet about the building and are allowed to scale the 144 steps to the top of the spire. From the top, you are rewarded with amazing views of the city.

When I met up with the girls later in the afternoon, it was time to start our drive to Esbjerg on the far west coast of Denmark. We got onboard on time and, overnight, were transported to Harwich. Home sweet home!