FLASHBACK #14: China & Charity (Part 3) - Sightseeing, Adventure & the End of Friendship

I really thought that the overnight stay in a plush hotel would help me to get a good nights sleep. How wrong could I be? With my friend and I sharing the same room, I just couldn't get over how she had treated me and how she had behaved during the trip. It played on my mind, depriving me of sleep. With just one day left, I was determined to make the most of it. After a sumptuous breakfast, we all clambered onto the coach and headed to the Forbidden City.

Located in the exact centre of the ancient city of Beijing, the City contains 9,999 rooms in 800 buildings. It is listed by UNESCO as the largest collection of preserved ancient wooden structures in the world and was declared a World Heritage Site in 1987. Although no longer occupied by royalty, the Forbidden City remains a symbol of Chinese sovereignity. Construction of the Forbidden City started in 1406 and took 14 years and an estimated 200,000 men. After being the home of 24 emperors, the Forbidden City ceased being the political center of China in 1912 with the abdication of Pu Yi, the last Emperor of China.

Have you every seen the movie, The Last Emperor? The 1987 biographical film about China's last Emperor, Pu Yi, won nine Oscar Academy Awards. As evidence of China's openness, this was the first feature film ever authorized by the government of the People's Republic of China to film in the Forbidden City. The City does have a feeling of grandeur and, as we strolled across the expanse preceeding the Hall of Supreme Harmony, I began to recall emotional scenes from the film. I remember that the weather on this day was stifling, the strong rays of the Sun coupled with the humidity of the City. The City truly is huge, covering some 720,000 square metres. The visit was full of kodak moments as we clamoured for group photos here and there.

After returning to the hotel just after midday, I decided to head out on foot and alone - this was about to become one of the most adventurous, thrilling and exciting parts of the trip. I knew that if I walked up a nearby main street, I would eventually reach Tiananmen Square, the scene of a series of student led demonstrations against Communist political repression and corruption during 1989. As I approached it, I visited the various stores, checking out the offers, buying small souvenirs for family.

Amid the mass of people, I slowly made my way towards the square. The first thing that struck me was it's size - it is 880 metres from South to North and 500 metres from East to West, an area of 440,000 square metres. Locals casually strolled across the square and one petit Chinese girl, holding an white unmbrella to shield her from the sun, offered to take my photo. I declined the offer, wondering if she was in fact a prostitute. I spent about an hour wondering around Tiananmen Square - to the South, I could see the huge gates leading to the commercial quarter I had walked through earlier. To the North, was a huge picture of Chairman Mao gracing one of the walls. Beyond his image, stood the Forbidden City. How arrogant, I thought, that a picture of China's first Communist Leader should precede the City which contained nearly 600 years of imperial history.

I continued my walk, heading back the way I came. I noticed a McDonalds and I'm ashamed to admit that I succumbed to the enticement of this most common of American food. After downing a Big Mac and Fries, I was on my way once more. A girl of my age approached me, asking if I would be interested in seeing some paintings. I obliged because I really had wanted to by something visual to take back home. She had said the paintings were just down the street, but when she led me down this very long, narrow alleyway, I started to panic from within. Two guys followed us into the alleyway and my first thought was how stupid could I be. After all, away from the crowds, anything could now happen. Would I disappear from the face of the earth, like those tourists you read about in the paper?

We entered a building and, true to their word, we were surrounded by paintings in a brightly lit studio. There was myself, the young girl and the two guys. My heart beating, urging myself not to react, I wandered around the premises, admiring the many paintings and drawings. After five minutes, I explained that I didn't have much money left as I was on the last day of my trip in China. The girl had the cheek to ask me if I could go to a bank machine to draw out some money to make a purchase. I told her I didn't have any bank cards. I had lied, of course, and when she asked how much money I had, I lied again, indicating I barely had enough money to buy another McDonald's meal. She asked if I was travelling alone and I told them I was with a group of friends who, glancing briefly at my watch, were expecting me in 20 minutes. When I suddenly saw the change in her expression, I knew then that their contact with me wasn't genuine. They realised I was penniless and that I had contacts who would alert the police if I didn't return. Bidding them good day, I made a quick exit, running as fast as I could down the alleyway, my heart beating fast, cursing myself for being so stupid. Perhaps they meant no harm, but to this day, I still consider myself to have been lucky. That far away from home, alone and outnumbered, anything could have happened.

I hastily made my way down the main road I had navigated down earlier, but at some point, somehow, I had got lost. The city's complex layout had outwit me. With a map in Chinese and all the street names written using chinese symbols, I was lost. I didn't panic though. With plenty of time (I didn't need to meet anyone in 20 minutes), I wandered around. The rest of the afternoon was a blur - at one point, I found myself strolling through a slum with dusty streets where adults and children alike wandered around with no shoes on their feet, rooves laden with metal. I continued walking, absorbing the contrast, my heart glad that while some children who played nearbly looked like they had nothing, they chuckled with glee.

I did start to worry, however, when I found myself walking over a bridge over a stretch of motorway! Whilst on the bridge, I scanned the scene, desperate to seek out a familiar monument or building. As I reached the other side, I entered what resembled a Supermarket and asked one of the cashiers if she could tell me where the Rainbow Hotel was. She shook her head, launching into a cacophany of Chinese. Her colleagues gathered around and, within a minute, there must have been twenty people barking at me in Chinese and pointing in different directions! I shouted out a 'thank you' above the clamour and they all started nodding their heads, smiling as though they had been helpful to a lost tourist. The truth was I was more lost and frustrated than ever.

I continued walking and, after a few minutes, a sense of happiness overcame me. I was lost, right, thousands of miles from home in a land of people that spoke no English whatsoever. And I was actually grateful for this deviation from the humdrum of normal life. As I stood on a street corner in this leafy part of the city, I noticed two old men nearby playing poker on stools and a rather rickety table. Elderly and winkled, one of the frail-looking duo slapped the shoulder of his opponent and laughed maniacally. Whether they were drunk or a really good joke had just reached the punchline or the guy had just won the game, I don't know, but his happiness spread to me and, once again, I was smiling.

I looked to the left and, miraculously, just fifty metres down the road, stood the Rainbow Hotel. I was saved. Not only had the afternoon been some kind of adventure where I had risked abduction, found myself in a slum, tried to seek help from the locals and was possibly approached by a prostitute, I had enjoyed the whole day. When I told my fellow travellers of my adventure over dinner, they all listened intently, envious of my deviation from the beaten track. My friend, true to her recent form, had downplayed the adventure, instead launching into a tale about her not-so-unique afternoon shopping with the girls from Watford!

After the celebratory dinner was over, a group had organised to go to a nearby nightclub. I declined, choosing instead to have an early night. The day had taken it's toll and my stomach was aching, for whatever reason. When I returned to the hotel room, I was given the fright of my life when, while I was sitting on the toilet, the phone next to me (which I hadn't even noticed!) started ringing! My heart literally stopped as the phone rang loudly, situated less than a metre from my hearing ear! I reluctantly picked up the phone; it wasn't as if I was expecting a call in my toilet, was it? Sweetpea was calling to ask if I would like to join her and Judy to the nightclub. I explained that my friend was going, she had pissed me off again and that I wasn't feeling 100%. She understood and, within an hour, I was in bed. The truth was I was ready to go home.

I slept amazingly well that evening and, when I woke the next morning, I felt surprisingly alert. Already packed, I headed down to breakfast. Judy and Sweetpea joined me and told me all about the visit to the nightclub. Apparently, there had been some kind of spat between the alliances which ended in the throwing of drinks. Oh, dear! The rest of the day was spent travelling to the airport and beginning our long journey back to the UK via Instanbul.

My friend and I checked in together so we were seated together for the flight home. Having fell sleep, I woke up to find that she had feel asleep on my shoulder. I looked down at her, pitying her for she hadn't realised how much she had pissed me off. Despite her arrogance, insensitivity and tactlessness, I let her rest there for I knew that this was as close to me as she was ever going to get once we got back home. Our friendship was over.

China had been a wonderful experience. Having created these entries about China in hindsight, there are some details that I can't remember. I remember that we visited a School for the Deaf in Beijing. The children there had created a memorable, exceptionally choreographed show for us. I also remember the night when my friend, the girls from Watford and the rubella boy went ten pin bowling together. We had a great time and, apart from my friend's behaviour, my experience of China was a positive one. I must admit, however, that China is a hardcore destination - there's the heat to consider, the culture, the very different food and the fact that you are isolated in every possible way in terms of communication and understanding. Because of this, I think going away with all those people made China a great experience.

http://en.wikipediaorg/wiki/Forbidden_city
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Last_Emperor